• Louise QUILLIEN - Kalliope SARRI (Eds.)

Textile Workers. Skills, Labour and Status of Textile Craftspeople Between the Prehistoric Aegean and the Ancient Near East

Proceedings of the Workshop held at 10th ICAANE in Vienna, April 2016

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Louise QUILLIEN
is Researcher at the Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), France

Kalliope SARRI
is Guest Researcher at the Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen


Studies on ancient textiles currently know a considerable growth. This volume contributes to the field, focusing on craftmanship. By surveying various cultures of the Ancient Near East and the Aegean, the compiled articles offer an overview of textile workers in action from the Stone Age to Late Antiquity. Combining various approaches such as archaeology, text studies, and experimentation, the contributions explore the social status, gender, age, and working conditions of the textile workers. Moreover, they investigate their intellectual capability, through a study of the acquisition, performance and transmission of skills. This collective work aims at opening a new perspective in the field of textile studies, in particular in the history of textile crafts in ancient societies.

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Der vorliegende Band ist der antiken Textilforschung aus so unterschiedlichen Blickwinkeln wie Archäologie, Schriftquellen oder Experimentalstudien gewidmet und bietet durch die Untersuchung verschiedener Kulturen des Alten Orients und der Ägäis einen Einblick in die Tätigkeit von Textilarbeiter*innen von der Steinzeit bis zur Spätantike. Die Beiträge untersuchen den sozialen Status, das Geschlecht, das Alter und die Arbeitsbedingungen der Textilarbeiter*innen. Darüber hinaus beschäftigen sie sich mit deren intellektuellen Möglichkeiten, indem sie den Erwerb, die Durchführung und die Weitergabe von Fertigkeiten untersuchen. Diese Publikation beleuchtet somit neue Aspekte im Bereich der Textilforschung, insbesondere in der Geschichte des Textilhandwerks in antiken Gesellschaften.

Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften
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Textile Workers. Skills, Labour and Status of Textile Craftspeople Between the Prehistoric Aegean and the Ancient Near East


ISBN 978-3-7001-8138-5
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ISBN 978-3-7001-8513-0
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Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften
Austrian Academy of Sciences Press
A-1011 Wien, Dr. Ignaz Seipel-Platz 2,
Tel. +43-1-515 81/DW 3420, Fax +43-1-515 81/DW 3400
https://verlag.oeaw.ac.at, e-mail: bestellung.verlag@oeaw.ac.at
UID-Nr.: ATU 16251605, FN 71839x Handelsgericht Wien, DVR: 0096385

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Mediterranean Interconnections: Weaving Technologies during the Middle Bronze Age

    Luca Peyronel

Textile Workers. Skills, Labour and Status of Textile Craftspeople Between the Prehistoric Aegean and the Ancient Near East, pp. 45-58, 2020/04/30

Proceedings of the Workshop held at 10th ICAANE in Vienna, April 2016


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Abstract

The use of the warp-weighted loom in Anatolia, the Aegean and Cyprus since the Early Bronze Age is attested by archaeological evidence, indicating that it was the main weaving technology in use in the area. However, the situation in the Levant during the Bronze Age was completely different: interactions between different weaving methods are known since at least the Middle Bronze Age (MBA), when loom-weights indicate the introduction of the warp-weighted loom and continued use of the traditional Syro-Mesopotamian horizontal ground-loom. The new technique of the two-beam vertical loom, later well documented by iconographic representations in Egypt, was also probably present. The distribution and types of textile implements found in the Syro-Palestinian regions also suggest that the evolution of the new loom types probably occurred in specific zones of interaction, along the southern coast, in the ‘Amuq Valley and in the Nile Delta, where the cultural and commercial relations between the Aegean, Cyprus and the Anatolian plateau were stronger. From a socio-economic perspective the presence of the warp-weighted loom in the Levant during the MBA seems to be a phenomenon mainly associated with a restricted group of craftsmen linked to palace organisation, possibly reflecting specific textile products and/or a distinct sector of the local textile industry.

Keywords: Levant; Middle Bronze Age; textile manufacture; loom-weights